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In the interest of expanding the knowledge of this technique, I am taking the time to explain it here for the cyber knitting community.
Let me preface the
directions by saying that this uniquely worked neck was first
illustrated for me in Elizabeth Zimmermann's KNITTING WITHOUT TEARS . This book opened up a
door for me in sweater design, and once going through I have
never looked back.
Well fitting necks are
lower in the front and higher in the back. Working
circularly knit sweaters has always been a challenge, as the
easy way to finish off, or start, a circular sweater generally
results in a neck that crowds the chin. Necks are commonly 2-4
inches higher in the back for most adult sweaters....1-2
inches for kids. If you know your row gauge (work a swatch to
find it!) you can figure out for yourself how many short rows
to add to any sweater pattern for the perfect fit. Where to
put them is knitter's choice, but generally they look best if
the TURNS are straddling the shoulders, so they are not always
exactly where you see them in the diagram. The TURNS need to
be staggered in an an even manner, so that you create a
CRESCENT MOON shape of added fabric,. Short row wrap turns are
There are a few ways
to create a short row neck in the round.
Depending on whether you are working the neck bottom up (Zimmermann style) or top down (Walker style), your short rows are the ENDING of the neck shaping or the BEGINNING and may not be connected at first. Zimmermann style has you starting with the red line and working towards the purple, and Walker style is the reverse.
Each line represents 2 rows of knitting: one across the INSIDE of the knitting plus one across the OUTSIDE.
For BOTTOM UP sweaters:
The black line is the last
round of knitting as you approach the neck.
Two markers are placed on the needle about 3" apart at the base of where the neck will be, which is where the red line begins on one side and ends on the other..
Starting at the red line on the left, work INSIDE, in pattern, ending at the red line at the right. Execute a short row wrap, TURN.
Work back across the same stitches on the OUTSIDE, but stop 2 stitches shy of where you started, which is starting point of the blue line on the left. Execute a short row wrap, TURN.
Starting at the blue line on the left, work INSIDE, in pattern, ending at the blue line at the right. Execute a short row wrap, TURN.
Work back across the same stitches on the OUTSIDE, but stop 2 stitches shy of where you started, which is starting point of the purple line on the left. Execute a short row wrap, TURN.
Starting at the purple
line on the left, work INSIDE, in pattern, ending at the purple line at the
a short row wrap, TURN, leaving you poised to knit
in the round on the OUTSIDE. All short row shaping
Work in the round creating the neck finish desired.
Connecting Round: Work around the ENTIRE neck, in the round, remembering to pick up short row loos/double wraps on the first round as you go. The extra short rows worked back and forth have created a wedge of fabric, so the back measures longer the front, allowing the neck to sit properly on the shoulders.
a free pattern
written for the cybercrowd by moi!
Click for free pattern !
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